WHRC: From the Archives
Cooking for the Community
By: Joanna Church, Women’s History and Resource Center Librarian
Welcome back to the GFWC Women’s History and Resource Center blog! This month, as we get ready for the holiday season, the spotlight falls on our collection of club-produced cookbooks.
American “community cookbooks” trace their history back to the Civil War, when Maria J. Moss compiled A Poetical Cook-book as a fundraiser for the US Sanitary Commission in 1864. Since then, women’s organizations from all walks of life have created their own cookbooks to raise money, preserve favorite recipes, and make their mark on their communities.
Women’s clubs have happily participated in this endeavor, and the WHRC holds a sampling of club cookbooks from the 1920s through today. Let’s take a quick tour through this delightful collection!
“Mrs. Thomas Gillice, President, 3rd District, Illinois Federation, prepares a cake from a recipe in the GFWC Cookbook, ‘America Cooks,’ published by Putnam and Sons,” from the October 1968 issue of “Clubwoman.” America Cooks (1968) is just one of several cookbooks GFWC has compiled to represent our many members, in the US and across the globe; others include A Cook’s Tour (1957), International Potpourri (1977), The Centennial Cookbook (1988), and American Buffet (1993).
Because we are an international organization, the GFWC cookbook collection has a broad scope. There is a lot of overlap, of course; just about every book includes recipes for standard fare like turkey, green beans, biscuits, and fruit pies. But there are regional specialties galore; “Crab Soup, Eastern Shore Style” (Mrs. Flo Berton of Maryland) and “Alaska King Crab Meat Souffle” (Mildred Hamill of Alaska) can be found in their clubs’ respective books, for example. The GFWC-produced A Cook’s Tour (1957) features delicacies from across the US and beyond, with recipes for “Bizcocho de Batata ‘Borinquen’” (Mrs. Carmen Aboy Valldejulli, Club Civico de Damas de Puerto Rico), “Ozark pudding” (Mrs. Joseph W. Cushing, President, Missouri Federation of Women’s Clubs) and “Latvian Stroganoff” (Mrs. Ellija Druva, President, Representatives of Latvians’ Baltic Women’s Council).
Some local cookbooks really lean into the neighborhood theme, like the two editions of GFWC Cocoa Beach Woman’s Club’s Out of This World Cook Book (1973 and 1985) that celebrate the club’s proximity to the “space coast” of Florida. Here is a recipe submitted by Jane DuBose Conrad, wife of astronaut Charles “Pete” Conrad Jr., in the “Satellite Salads” section of the 1973 edition. Like most community cookbooks, this was a fundraiser; proceeds went “towards the building, the furnishing, and the maintenance of the Space Coast Community Center at Cocoa Beach.”
A glance through any given cookbook will tell us a lot about the era in which it was written: what ingredients were available, what cultures were represented in the community, what kinds of events were being held, and more. Just a few of the recipes that provide a window to the time in which they were written include “hogs’ head cheese,” from a late 19th century Texas cookbook; “Mah Jong Mix” for the snacking needs of 12 -14 of your club friends, from the 1930 Ames Woman’s Club Cook Book; and many dishes that make good use of the latest development in food technology, from refrigerators and electric ovens to pressure cookers and microwaves.
When you look at the cookbooks with an eye toward the contributors themselves, you gain even more insight into time, place, and club culture. Recipes submitted by GFWC Presidents – past, present, and future – are often featured, even if they’re not from the state or region represented. Local and national elected officials (and their wives) can be found in books from every era. My favorite discoveries come from two ends of the “famous contributor” spectrum: “Catherine Mallon, Actress, Hollywood, California” submitted a recipe for chess cake to The Club Woman’s Cook Book (1928), and “Nora Roberts, Author for Silhouette Romances” provided a bread pudding recipe for The Chesapeake Collection (1983). While Roberts went on to be a household name, Mallon’s Hollywood career was not so successful; it doesn’t appear that she ever achieved a credited film role.
Since Thanksgiving is coming up, this blog post would not be complete without at least one example of my favorite holiday dish: apple pie. I make an apple pie every year, using a recipe from the Better Homes and Gardens red gingham cookbook circa 1998 (because my mom had the BH&G red gingham cookbook from the 1970s, and probably her mother had the previous generation as well)… but maybe I’ll try something new this year, from something in the Archives.
Have you made anything from a GFWC-related cookbook? Have you contributed one of your favorites to a club’s cookbook project? (And does your club have a cookbook, whether vintage or recent, that we should add to the WHRC collection?) Let us know in the comments!
Read more about the history of community cookbooks here:
Community Cookbooks and the Women Who Wrote Them (JSTOR)
Community Cookbook Collections to Inspire Your Next Meal (Boston Public Library)
Before Food Blogs: the Community Cookbooks (Denver Public Library)
Remember to check back next month for more stories from GFWC history (and present)! To learn more about the WHRC collections, visit the WHRC page or contact us at whrc@gfwc.org.
Joanna Church is the Women’s History and Resource Center Librarian at GFWC Headquarters in Washington, DC. She oversees the WHRC collection, handles research requests, and loves sharing our unique resources with fellow lovers of women’s history.
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